4–9 February 2023

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Coimbra

    Coimbra is small, but its historic centre has more character and activity than one finds in many larger cities. Countless locals, students, and tourists stroll along the pedestrian malls to the music of street performers, whose traditional songs enhance the charms of the environment. Some of these songs are about Coimbra itself, and a few even address the city as though it were a person. The personification of places is common in music, but these lyrics, exhibiting the romantic tenderness of university students, are unique in their level of affection. Hearing people express such fondness for the city makes it easy to fall in love with it. 

    During a busy week, I found that many of Coimbra’s attractions are associated with the University. It is certainly not a stretch to say that the school is the heart of the city. Its students, whom I have occasionally seen in their iconic black cloaks, lend the streets much more life than they would have otherwise, and many of the grand buildings and beautiful parks that attract visitors from all over the world are the University’s possessions. Its campus is palatial, and its nearby botanical garden is large and lush. However, there are also many civic sites worth visiting. Among these, my favourites are the Machado de Castro National Museum, which offers a well-curated history of fine art in Portugal; the Park of Santa Cruz, which is full of azulejos depicting Biblical episodes with a water theme; and the Conchada Cemetery, which proves that the people here know how to make even death beautiful. 

Coimbra

    Coimbra é pequeno, mas o seu centro histórico tem mais caráter e atividade do que um encontra em muitas cidades mais grandes. Inumeráveis residentes, estudantes, e turistas andam pelas ruas, e músicos cantam canções tradicionais que ampliam a beleza do ambiente. Algumas destas canções são sobre Coimbra, e umas falam com a cidade como se ela fosse uma pessoa. A personificação dos lugares é comum em musica, mas estas letras, a exibir a ternura romântica de estudantes de universidade, são únicas na sua nível de afeção. Ouvir pessoas a exprimir tal adoração para a cidade torna fácil amar ela. 

    Durante uma semana ocupada, eu descobri que muitas atrações de Coimbra são associadas à Universidade. A escola é o coração da cidade. Os estudantes dela, quem eu tenho visto às vezes nos seus mantos negros, dam mais vida às ruas do que elas podem ter de outra forma, e muitos dos edifícios grandes e parques lindos que atraem visitantes do todo o mundo são a propriedade da Universidade. O seu campus é regal, e o seu jardim botânico é grande e viçoso. No entanto, há também muitos sitos cívicos que merecem uma visita. Entre estes, os meus preferidos são o Museu Nacional Machado de Castro, que oferece uma boa história das belas artes de Portugal; o Parque de Santa Cruz, que é cheio de azulejos a mostrar episódios bíblicos com uma tema de agua; e o Cemitério da Conchada, que prova que as pessoas aqui sabem como tornar até morte bela. 

Pictures

Colourful houses
Casas coloridas

The University’s botanical garden
O jardim botânico da Universidade

The University’s botanical garden
O jardim botânico da Universidade

The Park of Santa Cruz
O Parque de Santa Cruz

The Park of Santa Cruz
O Parque de Santa Cruz

Azulejo at the Park of Santa Cruz
Azulejo no Parque de Santa Cruz

Sunset seen from a monastery
O ocaso do sol visto de um mosteiro

Machado de Castro National Museum entrance
A entrada ao Museu Nacional Machado de Castro

Roman Cryptoportico in the Museum
O cryptoportico romano no Museu

Roman Cryptoportico in the Museum
O cryptoportico romano no Museu

Altarpiece in the Museum
Um retábulo no Museu

Altarpiece in the Museum
Um retábulo no Museu

Azulejo dish in the Museum
Um prato de azulejo no Museu

View from the Museum
Visto do Museu

Quinta Das Lagrimas
Quinta Das Lágrimas

The Fountain of Tears 
Fonte Das Lágrimas

Neo-Gothic arches near the Fountain of Tears
Arcos neogóticos perto ao Fonte das Lágrimas


Fado music
Fado

Street at night
Rua na noite
Beautiful old books in the Joanine Library
Livros belos antigos na Biblioteca Joanina

Interior of Joanine Library
Interior da Biblioteca Joanina

Interior of the Sé Velha, a cathedral from the 1100s
Interior da Sé Velha, uma catedral do século XII

The aqueduct beside the botanical garden
O aqueduto perto ao jardim botânico

Botanical garden hiking trail
Trilha do jardim botânico

Botanical garden hiking trail
Trilha do jardim botânico

Sé Nova
Sé Nova

Conchada Cemetery
O Cemitério da Conchada

Conchada Cemetery
O Cemitério da Conchada

Conchada Cemetery 
O Cemitério da Conchada

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