21–29 April 2023
Braga After four weeks abroad, I returned to Portugal in anticipation of my family’s arrival in Lisbon at the end of the month. I decided to stay somewhere smaller, however, looking for some peace and quiet between visits to the French and Portuguese capitals, and also thinking that the best place to reacquaint myself with Portugal would be the city regarded as its spiritual centre. Founded in 20 BC, Braga is the oldest city in the country and one of the oldest Catholic dioceses in the world. The Rome of Portugal, as it is sometimes called, is a popular detour for pilgrims walking the Portuguese Caminho, who have no shortage of historic churches to visit. By far the most special of these religious sites is the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte, a hilltop shrine accessible by a baroque stairway lined with chapels depicting the Stations of the Cross. The ascent is long but meditative, and the view from the summit is breathtaking. ...